Fancy Shaped Diamonds
Cut Styles
Brilliant Cut:
- Characterized by numerous small, kite-shaped and triangular facets that gather and reflect light to create incredible brilliance and fire.
- Busy facet pattern with smaller facets can help mask inclusions and color, making brilliant cuts more forgiving of clarity and color imperfections.
Step Cut:
- Concentric, trapezoidal facets that create a mesmerizing “hall of mirrors” effect.
- Known for their elegant gleam rather than brilliance.
- Tend to have larger facets that reveal color and clarity grades more.
Appearance
Shape
Perceived Size: Elongated shapes (oval, marquise, or pear) can give the illusion of greater size vs a round diamond of the same carat weight.
Setting: Certain shapes need to be set in different ways to emphasize their shape or protect points. (ie. Marquise points may need V prongs at either end)
Cut Style
Color: Brilliant cuts can make color less noticeable by maximizing sparkle and light return.
Step cuts (emerald or Asscher cuts) show color more – those wishing for a relatively colorless step cut will need to go higher in color grade.
Clarity: Brilliant cuts can conceal small flaws through their many facets.
Step cuts with their larger open facets, may reveal inclusions more easily – those preferring an eye-clean diamond will need to go higher in clarity grade.
Meet the Shapes & Their Key Considerations
Oval
The oval brilliant cut diamond combines the fire and brilliance of a round diamond with an elongated, graceful silhouette. Creates the illusion of a larger size per carat.
The bowtie effect is a dark, bow-tie shaped shadow that appears across the center of the stone.
Well cut ovals: Bowtie is subtle and doesn't detract form the diamond's sparkle
Poorly cut ovals: Bowtie can be large or dark enough to be distracting
Symmetry and a smooth, balanced outline (no flat or bulging areas are also essential for a pleasing appearance.
Oval diamonds typically have a length-to-width ratio between 1.3:1 and 1.4:1.
Pear Shape
The pear brilliant cut diamond is a graceful cut that combines the brilliance of a round diamond with the dramatic shape of a marquise.
The bowtie effect can appear across the center of the stone. While a slight bowtie is common, the most desirable pears have a soft, minimal shadow that doesn’t detract from their brilliance.
Pear diamonds vary in length-to-width ratio, offering a range of styles from softly rounded to slender and dramatic. Most fall between 1.3:1 and 1.4:1.
Marquise Cut
The marquise cut is a dramatic, elongated diamond shape with two pointed ends. Its distinctive silhouette creates the illusion of a larger stone.
Marquise cuts offer strong value per carat, often appearing larger than other shapes of the same weight.
The length and pointed tips of marquise cut diamonds make it more susceptible to chipping, so secure settings (such as V-prongs) are essential for protection.
Symmetry is especially important for marquise cuts; uneven sides or misaligned points appear obvious and may affect the overall brilliance of the stone.